Meet Giampaolo Tabarrini

My first time traveling to the region of Umbria was years ago to meet my good friend Alessandro Meniconi, the former winemaker of Perticaia.

The area around the town of Montefalco is well known for three to four wines – the white Trebbiano Spoletino, Montefalco Rosso or red blend, the “big daddy” Sagrantino di Montefalco (one of the most tannic, biggest wines in the world) and their Passito of Sagrantino.

Alessandro Meniconi

Last year, Alessandro was hired by Cantina Tabarrini (one of Wine Spectators Top 100 Wines) to help strengthen an already great team. Giampaolo Tabarrini was the man that facilitated this thereby creating a “superduo” if you will. His actions spoke volumes about the lack of ego Giampaolo has in addition to his forward thinking, collaborative mindset.

When I walked in the door of Tabarrini, it was unclear if the winery was open or not due to it being under construction. They are in the midst of an eight million dollar renovation, which is ambitious to say the least. I eventually bumped into Giampaolo. A paradoxical man, Giampaolo looks like he wandered off of a set, filming a scene in that massively popular show Gomorrah.

His head is shaved and his teeth are stained from the dark color of Sagrantino. He carries a custom leather bag across his chest like a badge of honor. Whether he is working in the vineyard or in the cellar, it is inseparable from him.

Regardless of his appearance, it doesn’t take one long to discover Giampaolo’s heart of gold and his ambition and almost maniacal drive to be better. His shaved head and discolored teeth are quickly illuminated with a million watt smile that made me feel as if he has known me since we were kids and fought on the playground together. He takes me on a tour of his absolutely “Taj Mahal” of a wine cellar that is temperature controlled. It is also equipped with state-of-the-art iPad technology, sensors, humidity controls and enough space to produce 600,000 bottles per year. He has an impressive back vintage collection for special events and guests (he opened five, different old vintages for me which I will describe later).

He shared his incredible renovation plans – a media room for journalists and visiting importers, several guest rooms for overnight stays and a massive restaurant with floor to ceiling windows, complete with amazing views of Montefalco and the valley vineyard. He is even building a jacuzzi on the top floor just for fun.

While we toured the vineyard, I got an opportunity to meet Giampaolo’s mom and dad; classic, old school Italians who make their own prosciutto and other cured meats. I embrace Giampaolo like my long lost brother and his mom starts cooking up a storm to feed me. Is this happening? What sort of weird alternate reality have I stepped into? Have I just stepped back in time to the Italy of 30-40 years ago?

We tried wines that made my eyes tear. These wines were complete, absolutely amazing and made me immediately want to go buy multiple cases for my own cellar.

It was the perfect time to drink Giampaolo’s 2008 Trebbiano Spoletino; so well balanced, viscous, smooth with the perfect acidity and a gorgeous, golden color. This wine was the best I have ever had. The 1999 Sagrantino, which can be a difficult wine to drink young as a result of its aggressive tannins, was singing with a bouquet that made the heavens part. It had tobacco and chocolate, espresso, leather and bright acidity with a touch of vanilla from the usage of oak.  Giampaolo willingly admitted that he used to be too heavy on the oak and has learned to appreciate its usage a bit more now.

My favorite wine was the most affordable and rocked me to the core, a 2000 Montefalco Rosso which probably only cost 6 Euro at the time. It was elegant and complex beyond belief!

I can’t wait to go back and wish that all of you go visit this authentic human as well. Keep in mind that Sagrantino is a wonderful wine to collect for your cellar but the Rosso and Trebbiano can be drank every day.

Insider Tip: Try their wonderful dessert wine Passito di Sagrantino.