Farmers or Rebels? The Evolution of GD Vajra

Every winery has a story and I’m on a mission to share them with you from my home in Barolo but also beyond. This week I visited GD Vajra in the commune of Barolo in Piemonte.

The Visit

When I entered the GD Vajra winery on a recent fall morning, I immediately realized the magnitude of the property. Upon my arrival, I was greeted by Natasha (she runs the tasting room) who informed me that Giuseppe would be right with me. I quickly realized, however, that she could rival Giuseppe for her knowledge of the winery. She was dedicated to learning everything she could about her employer Thankfully for me, I was already familiar with the wine and friends with Matteo whom is Vajra’s winemaker. Vajra, as a result of his diligence in the vineyard, crafts immediately recognizable wines that speak of terroir and crus.

The incredibly knowledgable Natasha

On my visit, I got an opportunity to taste a few wines with Giuseppe and really dive into his family’s fascinating story. The greatest moments in our lives often come out of difficult times…

A time of unrest

The GD Vajra family’s history is rooted in the political protests of Torino in the 1960s. The 60s were a significant time of change, not just in Italy, but all around the world with racial riots, civil rights and war afoot in various countries. The Vajra story begins with a young college student named Aldo Vajra, upset with the social climate of the times, and actively protesting in the streets of Turin with others. Many students around the world were upset with the current status quo (much like the times we find ourselves in now).

One day, Aldo’s father happened to spot him in the streets protesting and as punishment, sent him to stay at the grandparent’s farm in the Langhe. On this farm, Aldo began to learn about other agricultural products and his passion for farming started to take shape. It was during this time that he also met the woman who was to become his wife. She shared his passion and they launched their own winery during a very difficult time in Italy’s history. The country was very poor, especially in the Langhe.

Aldo at work. credit: www.gdvajra.it/en

Vajra…today

Fast forward to 2021 and we find ourselves with the second generation of the Vajra family, who still to this day, work hand in hand with Aldo. The family consists of Giuseppe, Isidoro, and Francesca, each serving a different role in the company. As I mentioned earlier, they also have a brilliant, young winemaker named Matteo who has a maniacal attention to detail. The most amazing part of the entire operation is the collaboration and teamwork which is found here within the cantina. Vajra is one of the largest producers in the Langhe, producing over 650,000 bottles per year, which means that it requires a large team to execute on such a high level.

The winery itself is a visual masterpiece that you must see in person. The property contains a library and a gigantic, round table that is reminiscent of King Arthur’s round table. It is fitting that this winery would have such a table given its team culture. This table symbolizes the team philosophy that exists here and is imbedded within its culture. The success of the winery requires the help of many people, all working in unison to create such consistent wines. Giuseppe often spoke about their family’s rebellious nature to challenge ideas or societal norms. This creates a culture of empowerment within the workplace.  Great ideas come from many different people and are welcomed within the winery.

Giuseppe Vajra

Vajra’s Wines

Vajra’s product line showcases grapes commonly found in the Langhe such as Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo. Also they make a Rosato of Nebbiolo and a Spumante. They make several different Barolo with their Bricco delle Viole being my favorite of their cru bottlings. My favorite of all their wines though just might be their Kye which is a fantastically lush example of a Freisa. (a local grape variety related to Nebbiolo). I believe Freisa expresses itself best after about 10 years of age. Ian D’ Agata agrees with me in his book  Native Grapes of Italy.  That makes this wine a great value when compared to other wines in their lineup.

Vajra… future

The Vajra family will continue on their journey of making their classic wines, always with an eye on the future. Giuseppe himself mentioned to me ” We must always be cognizant of where we are but How can we always improve?”

I invite you to taste your way through the wines of the world with me and to make sure you at least try the two I mentioned here from GD Vajra. I am sure that they will bring you great pleasure.